Dinners at Parm

Dinners at Parm

It’s great when meal reviews are just a brisk walk away from the office, and even better when they’re as tasty as these guys. Check out an excerpt from our post on Parm’s new nightly specials, by chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone. Or for extra credit, go in on a Sunday night for my favorite special.

Saturday night’s veal parm is traditionally and comfortingly composed, from the butt tender cut that’s cooked to a moist medium to the silky fried eggplant, Jersey tomato sauce, and house mozz. The layers melt together in juicy, drippy harmony, sliding happily into your stomach. It’s served alongside mighty addictive braised escarole tossed with toasted garlic and chili, and finished with an anchovy emulsion. Reminiscent of a cooked Caesar salad.

Sunday night: Chinese. Parm’s take on the Chinatown experience is a total trip. First you get a wooden bowl of sweet-salty-spicy-crispy wontons, but instead of the standard squeezy condiment packets, the wontons are drizzled directly with duck sauce, white sesame seeds, and a mustard blend (Chinese hot mustard, regular mustard, and white wine).

For the main course: spare ribs, which take 36 hours to prepare. First 24 hours in a brine that picks up many of the flavors of char siu (Chinese barbecued pork). Then into a low-temp CVap oven for 12 hours, and finally some time on the grill. The ribs are plated atop wonderfully crusty pork fried rice made with LaFrieda sweet Italian sausage and topped with a fried egg, sugar snap peas, bean sprouts, and budding chives from Chinatown

Sunday nights never tasted so optimistic.

On Mondays, Parm reinvents the traditional cacciatore with fried chicken that first gets an overnight treatment in Greek yogurt that, according to Carbone, keeps it moist. The sauce is made with sofrito, double-smoked bacon, wine, tomato sauce, and button mushrooms, plus dried black trumpet mushrooms that are toasted then ground into powder in a coffee grinder. The final touch: a bear honey jar that’s instead filled with agrodolce, an Italian sweet-sour sauce. Apply generously for best results.

Serious Eats New York: Nightly Specials at Parm.